cape wrath trail blog

Did he know what they were for? Although B&H suggest you next keep the river on your right and the fence on your left after leaving the forest (or rather ex-forest), I lost the path and ended up splashing over the water where I could to the A896  which goes directly to Kinlochewe past the entrance to the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve. But there is a bunkhouse close by, at the glen’s other hamlet, Camas-luinie, which is where I now headed as I plodded north west up the road and recrossed the river through a field of Highland Cattle to the farm at Coille-righ. Aber ich habe ja ausreichend Zeit mich vorzubereiten. The outdoor centre, by the way, is owned by the National Trust for Scotland. CWT Section 2. is this 100m ‘or so’ from the bottom of the glen? The tiny community at Kinloch Hourn was fresh and rain-washed the next morning and a nice bloke from Aberdeen gave me his new compass to replace the one I’d lost the previous day. There is certainly a faint 4×4 track heading in the right direction and I would recommend taking this to make life easier. It turned out to be a pile of stones but by the time I’d retraced my steps the sun had come out and the loch didn’t feel that isolated. Haldane said that the glen was probably used by drovers moving their cattle from Skye in ancient times. After a spell of road-walking on the A87 down to Loch Duich, the path turned north east past the busy caravan site at Morvich. Na gut, über ein halbes Jahr länger die Vorfreude genießen. Aber wir wollen doch laufen! We talked about the rocks of the area and I asked him about some sheets I’d seen on the moorland above Kinlochewe two days earlier. Or is the issue not that straight forward? Despite some wet and wild weather, I was never uncomfortable during the hike and felt prepared for any meteorological scenario that may have occurred. The Cape Wrath Trail (CWT) is a walking route beginning in Fort William and ending at Cape Wrath on the north western tip of Scotland. So, if you want to walk the trail, do it now rather than later. Had I stayed I would have spent the afternoon exploring the beach. Und auch der Kontakt per Handy in die Heimat. An Ausrüstung ist schon vieles da. Und irgendwie ist es spannend, dass so bewusst wahrzunehmen. B&H recommend you skirt around the edge of the woodland en route to the pass but, having already missed that path at Upper Glendessarry, I decided to go through the forest on wide tracks and paths which ultimately join up with the ‘official’ path. Trending Posts. I thought I’d have a quick break there. Ullapool bis Inchnadamph. Just before Gulvain you turn left off the track and begin the gentle ascent north over boggy ground to a rocky outcrop called Gualann nan Osna. In their guide, B&H recommend that walkers now have an easy day and walk up the road to Achnashellach Station where they can stay at the nearby Achnashellach Lodge. Profile views - 153 “Och no!” he said. But this is plain rubbish, since most of the Brooke/Hinchcliffe route is on tracks along moorland, glens and over passes which have been formed over generations. The new Cicerone guide will recommend a new route variation north of Ullapool,  perhaps adding to the sense that the CWT is whatever you want it to be. But first, before checking in and before buying more breadrolls and cheese, I stopped at the Pumpkin Cafe and sat down to latte and chocolate cake. This was a nice change from the standard advice never to hitchhike that is published by Lonely Planet etc. 2013/10/18 Outdoor. The rufty tufty assessment really comes down to the sections of rough, pathless walking – like today – compounded by the sense of isolation and distance from human community. Etc, etc. Nasse Handschuhe sind doof. I moved to the  left and stumbled across peat gullies to another mound. After skirting Killilan the path leads into Glen Ling, following the River Ling which descends via waterfalls under a cliff face. Or, you know, get a good GPS device. When planning my Cape Wrath Trail trip this year I expected to walk it ultrapacking-style, going for long days with no stops at a steady 5km/h pace. One or two nodded a friendly hello, some gave me a snooty up-and-down look and a few seemed to regard this small part of Scotland as off-limits to anybody not wearing shorts and a number. Although the track is yet to be noted by the OS Explorer map for this area, it is marked by a big Scottish Rights of Way Society sign on the road about a kilometre south of Gerry’s Hostel. Overall I was happy with my gear selections on the Cape Wrath Trail. About 1 km south of Loch Ailsh, I saw the first and only sign post for the Cape Wrath Trail which indicated a minor detour from the usual route along the river. This is your very first post. Since I’d walked a few miles of B&H’s recommended route north of Strathcarron the day before, after setting up the tent at the hotel, I didn’t feel too guilty about missing the tiring trudge up the road. It is approximately 200 miles in length and is considered to be one of the most challenging long distance walks in the UK. “Oh, I’m only interested in the rocks,” he said. Why does  the same laissez-faire attitude not apply to the Pennine Way? It wasn’t, so I headed to the top of the next mound. Although OS has a pass marked here, this isn’t the way out. And there had been other days, like today, when I had seen no other people after setting off in the morning. On the face of it, it doesn’t seem right that you should have to walk the best part of ten miles west to the sea on a route to the north. The Cape Wrath Trail is considered the hardest hiking route in the United Kingdom. You can cut a few corners on published itineraries, miss out some short but dull road-walking sections by getting a lift (I and some other walkers I met did so), and still get one of the best, perhaps the best (and few remaining), experiences of true wilderness walking in Britain as you head north. ‘Rewilding’  is very much a live issue in Scotland and there was much evidence of it on this walk in the days ahead. Yet the outdoor shop bloke said he’d walked north east up the Caledonian Canal before turning left and north somewhere or other. Ein Weg, dem der Wanderer einfach folgen könnte, ist nur im geringen Maße zu finden. There is a very steep and pathless descent to the glen below and, once there, you face a very boggy walk to Strathan (my right leg disappeared up to the thigh in the bog at one point). A little below here the path heads steeply down to Glen Shiel and the main road to Shiel Bridge. Ich liebe Wanderkarten und würde mein Handy nur im Notfall benutzen. From here you are on an undemanding descent to the formal gardens at Attadale at the north end of Loch Carron. Beim Zusammenpacken fängt es bereits an. This takes you further into the wide, yawning – and empty – green glen of the Allt Camgharaidh. I followed the detour and joined the vehicle track to Benmore Lodge. That’s because the road to Strathcarron, the A890, is busy, initially steep, has blind bends and no footpath. The Cape Wrath Trail is challenging and frustrating, mostly because the "Cape Wrath Trail" is something that someone (probably on the internet) made up. Outdoor; Photography; Hacking; About Me; Cape Wrath Trail – von Ullapool bis …. Blog; Hiking the Cape Wrath Trail – Part 5. B&H recommend that you camp a little further up the river at the end of the previous day and if, like me, you stayed at Sourlies instead, then you should soon be passing the area they favour where the river is marked by crashing waterfalls, big pools and snake-like twists as it heads deeper into the glen and Knoydart. However, the profusion of pretty bog wild flowers here, as well as the occasional leg-breaking hole in the ground, should help keep your mind off the leaden feeling in your legs. This seemed to be a strange question since I was wearing boots, gaiters, walking trousers and had a bulging 45L rucksack strapped to my back. I took their advice and soon started to rue the decision since it entailed a two-hour plod over rough ankle-breaking terrain. Wie auf dem Foto in meinem Buch. Ich weiche nach und nach durch, verliere meine Gamaschen und auch kurz die Orientierung. It was a peculiarity of British weather systems  that while the rest of Britain was suffering heavy rain and floods, the North West Highlands were in a prolonged dry period that had left many springs and mountain burns completely dry and reduced rivers to shallow trickles. After a while following this you will get to the lonely estate shelter that B&H talk about. „Die Expedition Ihres Lebens: 200 Meilen durch Schottlands wildeste und schönste Landschaft.“. July 30, 2012 by Mark Patterson 4 Comments. Pfade. Since the tide was also covering the path that crosses the strath of this glen, I had to walk to the right of the glen and only crossed to the left of the river when the glen narrows. The path is not waymarked and has many variations. The end result was that I backtracked, and it was only by backtracking that I saw the iron gates and the cairn, which confirmed I was where I should have been. One path bears left from the village and first heads up to a large body of water called Lochan Fada via Gleann Bianasdall. The way ahead from Meallan Odhar. It takes place annually in Here, beside Loch Meallan an Fhudair, Kinlochewe wasn’t that far away on the map, but the combination of mountain peaks, rough trackless terrain and grey cloud and water at that loch made it seem very distant. There are no signs or posts to show you the way; navigating this trail is one of the things you’ll have to take care of yourself. Ein paar Tage später laufe ich wieder in eine Nebelwand und freue mich, dort ein vom Trail schon bekanntes Gesicht zu sehen. Und die Kamera? Nach einigen Furten bei Wind und teilweise Hagel und Sturm freue ich mich aber über ein festes Dach über dem Kopf. B&H don’t mention this sign. No, the bridge is right there. Even so, I decided to get more distance under my feet and followed the little river that flows into the loch from the north, towards An Teallach, tomorrow’s path to Dundonnell and one of the walk’s great views of a glacial landscape. But near the top, you’ll see the small green sign that wrongly directs walkers to turn right to reach Bealach na Croise. My Cape Wrath Trail took me the better part of 8 months of planning and preparation. Since there were a multiplicity of steep surfaces and rock faces I went for the nearest slope I could scramble up, the one covered in bracken, and hoped I would find the path eventually. To me, the reputation can’t be due to the length of the daily sections;  many long-distance paths have much greater daily mileages. Ultrapacking on the Cape Wrath Trail . Als ich vom Cape Wrath Trail, vom CWT, lese, will ich herausfinden, ob ich den packe. Irgendwie zieht es mich im Urlaub meist nach Norden. In der Bothy werde ich von 4 jungen Männern, die ich schon am Vortag getroffen hab, mit einem heißen Tee begrüßt. Was für ein Tag! A steep walk/scramble got me to the top and, lo, I soon saw a path and the line of iron fence posts that B&H say take you over the pass. But jogging unlikely with a 45L rucksack on your back. The route I followed was based on the somewhat eccentric trail described by Denis Brooke and Phil Hinchcliffe in North to the Cape (Cicerone, 1999), which starts at Fort William and immediately heads west to Glenfinnan before turning north. But another reason for writing this is the sense that some strange stuff is being talked about the CWT. B&H say you must climb for 100m ‘or so’ but after an estimated 100m ‘or so’ I still hadn’t seen anything. What she did was to keep walking into the gorge (she climbed over the cliffs which mark the end of the path) and saw what she thought was the track beside the river below. Nanu, wartet der auf uns? Ich kratze mein restliches Bargeld zusammen. Blog. Wir lassen uns überreden, einzusteigen, haben so noch etwas Zeit am Leuchtturm, aus dieser Perspektive aber nicht übermäßig beeindruckend. Strathan is between the loch and the forest. (Post-script: one walker I met recently said she had got lost on this part of the walk and spent an hour fruitlessly chasing tracks along the river rather than going up the glen. That’s Loch Arkaig down there. That service (and the hotel) has not existed for a few years now, so if you are committed to getting to Ullapool from here  then you are either walking from Corrie Hallie to the main road to Ullapool or getting a lift the long way round. Das Wasser des Sees ist spiegelglatt. They don’t disappear overnight, even if some information in North to the Cape is out of date. You might walk into the wrong pass, they say – presumably Bealach Gorm, which is where you would end up anyway if you followed the arrows on the misleading green sign on the path up from the village. Event sign. Mein Vorhaben beeindruckt und ich werde von ihnen mit zusätzlichem Proviant versorgt, bin noch Tage später vom Inhalt der einen oder anderen Tüte überrascht. At first I’d thought they were patches of snow but as I got closer they turned into big pegged out white sheets. Am folgenden Tag geht es nach Fort William. When she realised it was actually an ‘animal track’ she had to scramble upwards out of the gorge). From there I expected the loch to be visible. It’s a good step up from waymarked trails such as the West Highland Way and Pennine Way – although both routes make good initial training for the CWT. All photographs in this blog were taken, for better or worse, with an HTC Sensations XE smartphone. In fact, although I had been planning to camp beside Loch an Nid, the narrow loch on the other side of the pass, the even greater sense of isolation caused by the mountains on both sides of it, and the rain storm that blew in, made me want to keep walking. The lower path continues downhill and leads to Lochan Torr a Choit, which you can see in the middle distance. I find this hard to believe because the forest isn’t that big and your instinct, even if lost, would be to walk north and down hill to the road to Kinlochewe. Bin erschrocken, wie schnell man die Orientierung verliert. The idea was to hike up from Glenfinnan to Morvich and then take a bus to Portree through Kyle of Lochalsh. Am nächsten Tag komme ich gut voran. The Cape Wrath Trail is a long distance walk from Fort William to the northwesternmost point of mainland Britain, Cape Wrath. Another Cape Wrath Trail blog? The Cape Wrath Trail takes you to beaches, glens and mountaintops that see very few humans pass by in a year. The route is unmarked and there is no official line. By the way, there are also some notes in the hut suggesting that the windows in the bothy have been installed back to front. Loch Duich in the background. The craggy tops and smooth rock faces enclosing the loch now looked interesting rather than forbidding and I began to see why B&H recommended the site as a fine place to wild camp. But the clue to finding the right location is that you ascend the glen where you can’t follow the river on its left bank any more. Den ganzen Tag geht es nur mühsam voran. In this blog I’ll share some information about the trail, my preparation and why I’m doing it. Although one hostel owner did make comment that the Caledonian Canal route is a pretty boring way of starting this great walk, I’m not suggesting here that the CWT should become standardised. Last year when I walked the trail I kept a pretty good pace, and my experience on recent trips showed me that 5 km/h is a reasonable pace for me. Cape Wrath / ˈ r æ θ / (Scottish Gaelic: Am Parbh, known as An Carbh in Lewis) is a cape in the Durness parish of the county of Sutherland in the Highlands of Scotland.It is the most north-westerly point in mainland Britain. “The direction is clear; simply keep to the ride,” write B&H. Und wasserdichte Socken! Auf dem Trail liegen einige Bothies, frei zugängliche Hütten der Mountain Bothies Association. Leider fehlt mir im Moment dazu die Zeit, meine Tour von 2017 in Worte zu fassen. Die Sonne bessert zwar die Laune, aber trägt ihren Teil zur Erschöpfung bei. At one point you are asked to turn left where there is a tree on a rock in a river. Not a bad place for lunch. Although the path becomes vague in places, it follows the river, which heads north west, north (at last) and north west again. Der Rucksack wird trotzdem schwer genug. Basically, some of the Brooke/Hinchcliffe (B&H) directions read like a child’s idea of a pirate treasure map. Here, in about one square foot of grass on the walk down to Attadale, are four or five typical bog wild flowers including bog cotton and bog asphodel. Aber eigentlich fühlt sich das hier wie das Ziel an und wir beschließen, dass das Cape noch einen Tag warten muss. Mein fester Vorsatz vom Vorabend für ein Hotelzimmer hat sich bei dem passablen Wetter tatsächlich in Luft aufgelöst. The other bears right and climbs steadily to the same loch on a wide track past the Heights of Kinlochewe. A new guide by Iain Harper, just published by Cicerone (April 2013), should also increase its popularity – which is good for bunkhouse owners, not so good for walkers seeking splendid isolation in the Highlands. Coming down from the pass, heading over the round top of Meallan Odhar, I met three English walkers coming up – the first people I’d seen since leaving the B&B that morning. The pass between Glas Bheinn and Beinn Uidhe, looking back towards the loch . Sie sind unbewirtschaftet und sehr einfach gehalten, bieten Lagerplätze für Isomatte und Schlafsack. I had and had wondered what they were for. I trudged up the road and, while dodging camper vans, at least had the advantage of seeing how the mountains in this area near Torridon were changing shape. And throughout this section of the walk, the stoney round top of Ben Aden looks down on you, like the All-Seeing Eye of Sauron. What this means is that when the tide  is in at Loch Nevis then you have to scramble over some big, big boulders to get around to the mouth of the River Carnach in the glen next door. Die Sonne schaut zwischen düsteren Wolken durch und leuchtet die Berge an. What to expect from the Cape Wrath Trail . Despite completing several other long-distance walks I fell into this category and I can happily report that if I can find my way for over 100 miles across Britain’s last wilderness (despite losing my compass at one point), then most people can. Whatever the case, the track marked by the big green sign on the A890 is a short cut to the Coulin Pass if you decide to stay at Gerry’s Hostel. B&H, always keen to direct walkers away from the handiwork of human beings, suggest you don’t go that way but descend into the adjacent glen of a burn, the Choire Chaoil, which runs parallel to the road. After the last few days it seemed like utter luxury. Der Weg entlang der Steilküste gibt einige beeindruckende Ausblicke frei. Day Six: Camas-luinie to Strathcarron – 11 miles. This website has been developed as a resource for people planning an expedition on the Cape Wrath Trail in Scotland. Day 11: Camasnagaul to Ullapool – 28 miles (by car), early morning wildlife watchers on Little Loch Broom, The A’Chuil bunkhouse across the river in Glen Dessarry, Finding the path to the pass to Barrisdale Bay, Where the path splits to Shenevall bothy on the way to Corrie Hallie. B&H suggest you “follow the road”  a mile or so up to Strathcarron from this point but it would be perfectly excusable to hitch a lift or even get the train from the stop at Attadale to the next station at Strathcarron or Achnashellach in Glen Carron. Im Spätsommer soll es losgehen – aber leider macht mir der Job zunächst einen Strich durch die Rechnung. Well, I thought I could see where the river turned south west. at this point you will be looking for another exit from the gorge. I kept walking to the nearby Kintail Outdoor Centre, which is marked on OS as a place of tourist interest. Er ist kein offizieller Wanderweg und nicht ausgeschildert. Just above you and to the left rises the sharp jagged profile of the Forcan Ridge. Collection of bottle tops at Gerry’s Hostel, The Falls at Easan Dorcha, in the guest book. The path “bifurcates” at some point, say B&H, employing an unnecessarily obscure word. However, you surely won’t have forgotten that somewhere up ahead B&H will ask you to exit the glen in a dramatic and tiring fashion. Day Four: Kinloch Hourn to Shiel Bridge – 9-10 miles. Cape Wrath Trail Gear List. Making coffee in a midge-free breeze also gave me the pleasure of soaking up one of the walk’s greatest backwards views: the wide, glacial landscape that includes the terrain back to the mountains enclosing Loch an Nid. Then, by chance, I looked behind me and the loch was there. Ich erreiche die Maol Bhuidhe Bothy. From this point I had the first panoramic view of Strathan, Glen Pean and Glen Dessarry where I would be walking the next day. Then he said that the Brooke/ Hinchcliffe route was out of date because paths they described no longer existed. Und dann geht es los, vor mir liegen drei Wochen und gut 350 km Abenteuer. B&H here suggest that CWT walkers follow the path upto and around the Falls of Glomach a few miles to the east, returning down Glen Elchaig. In contrast to the jagged stony beasts to the south,  some of the mountains visible around Strathcarron are more whale-backed and hide their bulk in thick low clouds, as if sulkily reluctant to show their true face. No path,” remark B&H. The second chance to get lost comes after you’ve reached Lochan Fada and are asked to navigate a short distance to a second, out-of-sight, body 0f water, the much smaller Loch Meallan an Fhudair. Much of the time there is no path. It’s a hot pull with a heavy rucksack but once the terrain levels out you are soon at the entrance to the pass, marked by a fence and a magnificent broom bush, and the path to Kinlochewe. £16 on average but, as he said, it was only open to groups. And never mind the backwards views, there are some fine sculptural cairns to see on this path too; more land art than the usual piles of stones. But isn’t alone-ness what the solo walker is seeking on walks like this? The Cape Wrath Trail Knoydart Expedition gives you the chance to walk the first 4 days of the Cape Wrath Trail, from Fort William to Kinloch Hourn. But after a while the track peters out and you are left to find your own best way over the rough terrain. This one began with the way-too-expensive Scotrail sleeper to Fort William. By coincidence a certain charity athletic event was taking place the same day and so this area was full of competitors warming up in preparation for their 50-mile run-and-bike event. But OS shows there is no path from the river outlet to Strathan and so I had to accept another ascent. Hilfreich wäre es, wenn ich nicht immer erst zu spät feststellen würde, dass auch ein halbwegs vernünftiger Weg existiert. Another section advises walkers to find an important path by scrambling up a steep glen where the river turns south west and shoots out of a gorge. But first there was an 8am bus journey back down the road to the crossroads at Drumsallie, where B&H’s CWT starts in earnest. Day Ten: An Teallach to Camusnagaul – ten miles or thereabouts. Cape Wrath Trail Blog. This short bus trip had a sour moment when a passenger on the bus quickly ordered me not to sit towards the front of the bus because local school children sat there (which is exactly where he and many other passengers were sitting). The view from Loch Eil. B&H suggest you can stay in B&Bs on the southside of Loch Eil. The evening before I’d camped beside the river within sight of An Teallach, at the point where the path to the bothy at Shenevall splits from the path to Little Loch Broom. This is a good location in which to contemplate Cape Wrath Trail’s tough reputation. 320 km langer Weg durch die nord-westlichen schottischen Highlands von Fort William bis nach Cape Wrath ganz im Nordwesten. The hut looks over to the impressive ridge Sgurr na Sgine which was, as they say, shrouded in mist. I’m very glad I’ve now done both, as it’s pretty special here. Further on the path crosses a burn and you need to find a bridge 100m upstream, state our favourite guides. The map showed a building to the south of the loch and I wondered whether it was a bothy. The second woodland of the day, above Kinlochewe, gave B&H same problems since they report that blown trees meant it took them an hour to cover the 1.5km through it – not that they were meant to walk through it at all. After a while the beast Gulvain shows its face. As you head west on an easy track you see the A’ Chuil bothy over to the left (perhaps to be considered an alternative to camping at Strathan) and after that you are soon approaching a large area of plantation and deciduous woodland. But if this sign name is a mistake by the society, it wouldn’t be the first since there’s a really confusing one near Kinlochewe which gets the names of two passes mixed up. Nebel auch. The path remains poor and relatively obscure as it winds down and across the face of the hill into Glen Elchaig, occasionally skirting the top of rock faces. Der Cape Wrath Trail ist ein ca. Ironically, as I was finishing lunch at the loch,  two walkers I’d briefly met the day before went past on their way down to Bealach na Croise – the narrow pass to Loch an Nid that B&H describe as feeling “very closed in and isolated.” The pass is visible from the loch and B&H’s words are accurate. As the track turns east the vast bulk of Gulvain, a 987-metre high Munro, shows itself. ENDS. Our favorite bothies along the Cape Wrath Trail, from the cozy to the absolutely epic. You can’t say that about the Lake District. Why? B&H suggest you could have lunch here – but you can also spend an hour happily browsing the guest books and collection of that little magazine you often find in out-of-the-way places like this, Rough Stuff. Nevertheless, the path was clear enough as it steeply ascended the side of the loch en route to the big pass to Shiel Bridge via the Forcan Ridge. It goes through ten places that could loosely be termed towns or villages in its entirety, but few of these will coincide with the end of a day’s trekking. How selfish of them not to. http://www.1745association.org.uk/Long%20March.htm. Karte und Kompass oder GPS-Gerät sollten unbedingt dabei sein. Mit einem kleinen Umweg beheben wir unseren Navigationsfehler und als ich mich am späten Nachmittag gegen Windböen stemme, würde ich die gern wieder gegen den Nebel tauschen. Unfortunately, if you’re at Attadale, the only way north is via the road or the railway. Sign to Strathan warning that you are about to leave the known universe. I offered the crofter some money for his fuel and bother. I was fortunate to do it on a day of blazing sunshine. Hierbei handelt es sich nicht (!) So, I decided just to walk upstream for a while until I could identify the pass out of the glen. He then barked: “You’re lucky to get on the bus!” Matters weren’t helped when I later realised I’d missed my stop and had to walk back up the main road to the trail start at Drumsallie. When B&H wrote their book there was a foot passenger ferry service to Ullapool operated by a hotel. Even so, I completely missed the iron gate that B&H mention as having seen in 1983. Below the ridge, among the grey boulder field, is a prominent line of rocks that hides the rough path that takes you down from the pass. It is perhaps the most remote and wild section of the entire Cape Wrath Trail. At the top the path breaks out into open moorland with clear  views over to Beinn Eighe. Aug 06, 2014; Choice of maps is a particularly important decision when planning an expedition on the Cape Wrath Trail. But before heading on, turn left at the bridge over the River Coulin and you will come to the waterfalls at Easan Dorcha and surely one of the smallest, neatest bothies in Scotland – the Tea House, as it’s called. Trouble is, there are a lot of rocks and a lot of trees in and near the river. Die letzten Tage laufe ich nicht mehr allein. Einige lange Abende fiebere ich mit Bloggern, notiere mir Hinweise zu Strecke, Ausrüstung und Übernachtungsmöglichkeiten. Or what? They mean it splits, so you keep to the lower one near the river. Auf weiten Strecken ist man fernab der Zivilisation und auch vernünftige Wege machen sich teilweise rar. More. But that seemed miles away. The prospect fills me with excitement and anticipation with a fair smattering of fear! Als Ziel hatten wir uns den Norden Schottlands ausgesucht: Den Cape Wrath Trail. Was there a place to get a cup of coffee? Then I thought: why didn’t the people who came this way before me build a little cairn, or an arrow, showing the right way. You know the feeling: a rail ticket in your pocket; a rucksack that seems far too heavy; and feelings of excitement about the adventure to come. I escaped by walking to placid Loch Arkaig as the sun went down, and inspecting the ruins of the Jacobite-era army barracks, dated to 1745 by OS. I rationalised it as a scouting mission and an opportunity to follow an old track up to the Coulin Pass which Gerry told me about with the aid of one of his old 1:50,000 scale maps. Approximately 230 miles in length, most people take 2-3 weeks to backpack the trip. Nach vielem Abwägen beschließe ich, dass diesmal die Tour im Vordergrund steht und nehme nur eine Kompakte mit. The one going upstream should help you negotiate the rough plod for a while but when this also runs out you are left to pick your own way to the steep bottom of the pass. Viel mehr ist es ein Netzwerk an einander gereihten Wanderstrecken (durch teils wegloses Gelände) mit vielen Alternativrouten, die dich über 370 km durch die nordwestlichen Highlands von Fort William nach Cape Wrath führen. He mumbled something about Morvich and the fact that he didn’t tackle the Falls of Glomach because he didn’t have trekking poles (I missed the falls out too, but not because I didn’t have any poles).

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